To the Airport!
7/5/98; 1.5 hrs; inventoried finish kit.
9/30/98; Here is the proposed panel layout (as of today...). Printout is
from Panel Planner software.
The two large black dots in the lower center of the panel are the air
vents. The vertical card compass may be replaced with a conventional wet compass.
Here is the screen shot from Panel Planner:
I have devoted an entire section to the design and construction of the
panel. This will take you there.
10/19/98; 2.0 hrs; fabricating canopy latch.
Here is the latch mechanism that will catch the latches on the rear of the
Detail of the release mechanism. The spring on the lock pushrod was too
short so I made spacers out of brass tubing and small washers (R/C aircraft parts!).
The drawings show the pushrod above the latch handle; However, it appeared
to me that the pushrod had a much better angle to the latch if it was positioned below the
The outside portion of the latch. I intend to add a key lock, but I
haven't yet decided how to do so. Latch is shown partially open.
10/22/98; 4.5 hrs; tapped holes for strut fittings; tapped holes in canopy
latch pushrod; more canopy frame details; cut and shaped 5/8" plywood for
fiberglassing into canopy forward frame.
The customary procedure for stiffening the canopy frame calls for foam to
be fiberglassed into the forward channel. I had some 5/8" plywood on hand which was a
perfect fit, so I cut, sanded, cut, sanded, and generally made a mess of the shop by
filling it with sanding dust. I used the wood since my last two airplanes have been wood
and I was feeling bad about not having any wood in this one..........I feel better
10/23/98; 4.5 hrs; fiberglassing canopy frame (yuck!); fabricated channel
My fiberglassing efforts, while quite effective at stiffening the canopy
frame, looked absolutely atrocious! Since I couldn't stand to see the fiberglass every
time the canopy was opened, I decided to cover the whole mess. You can see how covers were
fabricated from scrap 0.32 stock. The covers are riveted to the channel with long 3/16
rivets, and glued to the side blocks with proseal. The frame looks MUCH better.
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