Sam Buchanan's RV6
2/5/99; 5.0 hrs; completed airseal installation; working on airbox; fitted air scoop.
The forward portion of the mounting plate had to be bent up so it would align with the airscoop. Also shown is the carb heat adapter available from Van's. The carb heat door control arm has to be mounted on the extreme edge of the door to allow clearance for the adapter.
Notice the glob of RTV on the filter; This is to cover the notch in the filter that is necessary to clear a protrusion on the bottom of the carb. Also visible is the carb heat muff.
Only thing remaining in the airbox installation is the airseal that will go on the nose of the box.
Amendment! After a trial fit of the lower cowl, I was concerned about the carb heat scat tubing rubbing the cowl. I consequently relocated the muff as shown to yield maximum clearance. The tubing is aggravating to fit but is possible to install if you fit it onto the airbox first. I trimmed about 1/2" off the end of the muff so it would swing into place above the airbox.
Shown is the mixture safety return spring. If the solid core mixture cable breaks, the spring will return the mixture arm to full rich position. Care must be taken to insure that the spring installation doesn't interfere with full travel of the throttle arm.
2/8/99; 6.5 hrs; completed airbox; began running the big wires (battery, starter, alt,etc).
2/15/99; 4.0 hrs; fabricated gascolator bracket and installed gascolator; moved master relay.
I had originally planned to install inline filters in the wing roots and eliminate the gascolator; However, I wimped out and went with the gascolator once I saw there was a clear area on the right side of the firewall. I could have shortened the fuel lines by relocating the electric pump to the right side.....but I didn't. The custom bracket was necessary to get the gascolator bail to hang the way I wanted it, and to clear the engine mount.
The master relay was originally located on the front side of the firewall. I started having visions of that huge #2 cable shorting against something in the engine compartment, the battery on fire, and no way to shut the whole mess off! The relay was relocated to the rudder pedal support bracket just above the battery box. Now there will only be a twelve inch unprotected cable, and all cables forward of the firewall will either be protected by breakers, fuses, or switches.
I feel better already!
2/20/99; 2.5 hrs; Completed battery box fabrication and installation.
Bottom of battery box with plastic rub strips and angle to keep battery from sliding aft.
The Concorde RG25 is a little smaller than the battery shown on the plans. The spacers on the side of the cover are double layers of the 1/8" plastic supplied with the kit; This gives a perfect fit for the RG25. (The positive terminal is on the right end of the battery.) The battery has a "ridge" on the top that was slightly trimmed so the hold-down angle would fit properly.
Note the notch in the cover. This allows the cover to be removed without having to snake battery leads through a hole in the cover. The notch is lined with automotive vacuum hose that has been split with an Exacto knife. I also prosealed a piece of Lexan to the inside of the top of the cover so there would be no way for the battery terminals to short against the cover if the battery got loose.
2/23/99; 1.5 hrs; completed installation of #2 and #4 wires.
By the way, Bob Nuckoll's excellent wiring diagram calls out #4 wire for the alternator and buss feed. This is the correct size if you are running a 60 amp alternator; However, many RVs have a 30 amp unit, and #4 is overkill. Those planes can get by just fine with #8 and it is a lot easier to handle! My RV has the #4 because, 1) It took me a while to figure this out, and 2) I started out with the 60 amp Cessna alternator but will probably use Van's little 30 amp automotive conversion for cowl clearance.
2/27/99; 4.5 hrs; installed VAn's alternator kit; wired MAP sensor; assembled and installed RMI ammeter sensor; installed carb temp sensor.
Here is the installation of the Van's alternator kit. Alternator is a rebuilt ND unit of 35 amp capacity. Brackets are included; I had to but a slight joggle in the tension arm to get it to align properly with the alternator. Also shown is the fabricated bracket to hold the cooling blast tube in place.
Gates PoweRated 6735 (3/8" x 35", commonly used on power lawn equipment) belt is the shortest belt I could install. I wanted a short belt so cowl clearance would be maximized. It is necessary to slip the belt onto the ring gear before the gear is installed.
7/9/99; 2.0 hrs; installed prop and spinner.
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The Finish Kit