Many Interceptors exhibit a sagging tail as the rear leaf springs lose their springiness over time. New springs are expensive. Re-arching is only a temporary solution; the springs will eventually sag again.
I discovered a cheap and easy solution which I call redneck engineering (I live in Alabama, don'cha know). After investigating the various expen$ive options of new springs or re-arching, someone, I can't remember who, suggested, "Why not just make some longer shackles?" Based on what Frank Schwartz told me about fitting 2 or 3 fingers between the top of the rear tire and the fender, I calculated that I needed 1.5 inches of lift. The shafts of the old shackles which mount the rear of the leaf springs to the frame are centered on 3-inch holes, so I had the welding shop make me some shackles on 4.5-inch holes. I think they charged me $15. They seem to work perfectly. That extra inch-and-a-half of lift in the rear makes a huge difference in how the car looks. As of the onset of Jensen 2000, I've put about 2000 miles on the new shackles with absolutely no problem.
When Frank complained that his car was sagging, too, I made him a set of longer shackles like mine. I got some quarter-inch steel bar, 1.5 inches wide, from the hardware store, and cut 4 pieces, each 6 inches long. Clamped them all together with a C-clamp and used a drill press to drill holes 0.5 inches in diameter on 4.5-inch centers. To mount them you need grade 8 hex-head bolts, 4 inches long and 0.5 inches in diameter, along with the matching grade 8 nuts and lock washers. Total cost for materials and hardware was about $15.
The first picture below shows the stock shackles. The second picture shows the extended shackles I made for Frank.
Another solution might be air shocks. These would be more expensive than my redneck shackles, but cheaper than re-arching or new springs. Has anyone tried them? Tell us about it on the Jensen-cars list.
Mike Lawrence in Colorado has also installed longer shackles. See his web site.
Last updated: April 13, 2006