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Assembling the Chassis of STALKERV6 #29
2/10/04 Michael and I cleaned the frame with Coleman lantern fuel (contains naphtha and leaves no residue) and primed it with Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer. The white primer was applied with 2" foam brushes. After allowing the primer to dry overnight, we applied Rustoleum Aluminum enamel with foam brushes. The paint is low viscosity and flows very nicely into the weld beads.
I intended to use a spray gun to paint the chassis, but cold weather eliminated that option. After considering how little of the frame is visible on the finished car, we were content to brush on the finish instead. A major reason for using off-the-shelf paint, besides low cost, is that it is readily available for repair when necessary. I purchased some of the same paint in spray cans for finishing small parts and touchup. Rustoleum has proved to be a good paint on prior projects. The light color frame is a departure from what is often done. Michael and I watched a TV show recently about Maseratis, and the "Birdcage" cars along with many other Maseratis had aluminum colored frames. We decided that was the look we wanted on our car. It should contrast nicely with the British Racing green body color we intend to use.
2/12/04 After allowing the paint to dry, we flipped the chassis over so we could install the floorboards. The holes had been deburred and the edges of the floorboards smoothed, and I applied a thin bead of silver silicone caulking (available in several colors at the home improvement store) to the frame members.
Michael got to work running in the screws. The screws are hexhead #8, 1/2" long with a drill tip. We bought the screws at Fastenal and I picked up a magnetic hex bit driver for the drill while I was there.
Once the floorboards were attached and the chassis flipped right side up, a bead of sealer was applied on the floorboard/frame joints and smoothed with a gloved fingertip. The silver silicone really gave the floors a finished look.
Not only does the caulking look nice, but it will prevent water from seeping between the floor and frame if the car gets caught unprotected in a rainshower. It could also prevent oil from seeping under the floorboards from the engine compartment.
Before mounting the steering rack, drill 5/16" holes in the bracket for the u-clamps and for the attachment of the bracket to the frame. Center the u-clamp on the bracket so the holes can be marked, and evenly space the frame mount holes on the sides of the bracket.
It is impossible to get a wrench into the bracket channel, but a screwdriver blade can be wedged between the nut and channel so the bolt can be properly torqued.
Update: After driving the car I found that the steering rack was moving within the U-clamps. I removed the washers between the U-clamps and the bracket, shortened the bolts about 3/16" and reinstalled the bolts so the U-clamp would pull down tight against the bracket. There is still a very small amount of movement due to the rubber cushions but not nearly as much as before.
The rack mount is cleverly designed so the rack location can be adjusted to provide proper geometry of the tie rods. Once the rack is bolted to the bracket, the bracket is moved up and down the frame mount to achieve proper geometry; then marks are made on the frame mount through the predrilled holes. Remove the rack bracket from the frame, drill the frame holes, replace the rack mount and use 1.5" long 5/16" bolts to attach the mount to the frame.
The radiator mounts to the frame via two tabs that carry bolts and a tray in which the radiator rests. I called Dennis to get his ideas on where to find a suitable piece of padding for the radiator tray, and he replied, "Use an old mouse pad". So I did. The pad was trimmed to size, the radiator fit the tray perfectly, two holes were drilled for bolts, and the radiator had a new home.
The fan shroud needs minor trimming to fit properly on the back of the radiator. A Dremel with cutoff wheel was used to make this cut in the shroud...
...and the fan fits perfectly up against the frame member. The fan comes with nylon fasteners, and I purchased a thermostat which will be wired to allow the fan to operate either manually or automatically.
The rod end bearing for the rear suspension links need to be centered in the brackets with washers. On a couple of the brackets I put a washer between the bracket and the hip panel so the panel wouldn't be puckered when the bolt was pulled up tight. A trick for inserting the washers is to use two bolts with each bearing. Start a bolt from inside the car, push it into the bracket, add washers that will form the inside spacer, and add the bearing but don't push the bolt all the way through the bearing. Now start another bolt from outside the bracket and push it into the bracket just enough so the outer washers can inserted between the end of it and the bearing. Slide the outer bolt in as necessary to keep each washer from falling out of the bracket. Once all the outer washers are in place, push the outer bolt in until it hits the inner bolt, then push the outer bolt back out the bracket with the inner bolt. All the washers will now be in place instead of rolling all over the floor of the shop. This is not nearly as confusing to do as it is to explain! Important: The bolts must be pulled up tight so the bolts and washers will not rotate! The ball needs to be trapped so the bearing rotates on the ball, not the ball rotating on the bolt. This will require considerable torque on the bolts since the teflon in the bearing has quite a bit of drag. Allowing the ball to rotate on the bolt will cause the bolt to wear......and that is not good.
Before the hip panels are fastened into place, place them into position and mark for the 1/2" holes that will be required for the bearing bolts. Remove the panels, drill the holes, and then attach the panels. Each bolt has a washer under the head. I am using #8 round head screws with phillips slot in areas that will show on the finished car. They look better than the hex head bolts and are less likely to catch clothing. To avoid damaging the phillips heads, I run a hex head screw into each hole to tap it before inserting the phillips screw.
The fuel cell mounts on the two rear frame members. Since the cell rests on top of the forward member, I used oval head bolts that are countersunk into the tank bracket for the forward mount.
2/13/04 The front suspension is complete, wheels have been attached, and the car taken off the sawhorses. The motor mounts are attached with 3/8" x 1" grade 8 bolts and locknuts; however, it has been suggested that the mounts be fitted to the engine prior to putting the engine into the chassis since they are a tight fit in the mount brackets.
Prior to final assembly of the front end, I cut off 3/8" of the threads on the top tie rod so there would be no interference with the coil spring. Teflon tubing is furnished with the kit for use as a bushing for the shock bolts. Note: The front shocks are shorter than the rear ones. I may cut off the old spindle steering arm since it is no longer needed.
Inserting the axle into the frame is a task that lives large in Stalker lore! At first glance, there is no way the chunky S-10 rear end will fit into the svelte Stalker chassis. But this is a case where mind can triumph over mass. A careful look at the situation will reveal that there is just enough room to snuggle the diff into position. We used a floor jack to do most of the heavy lifting. A carpenter told me during a demolition job one time that "if you're gruntin' you ain't doin' it right". Done carefully and methodically, the axle insertion can be accomplished in a matter of minutes with no hernias or innovative vocabulary.
Michael is shown working the axle through the frame. We removed the left brake drum to make it easier to fit the axle into the left side of the frame. The pinion has to be rotated until it points up in order for it to just fit through the frame members on the right side of the chassis. Once we had the axle fully into the frame, we picked it up enough to rotate the pinion backward 270 degrees and it moved easily into the tunnel! Lots of carpet padding protected the frame and a rollaround stool was used to help support the axle.
Mission accomplished! No ruptured disks and Michael and I are still on speaking terms. The paint is drying on the suspension links and hopefully tomorrow Stalker #29 will be standing on all four feet. (The jackstands are $9.95/pair at AutoZone)
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The steering rack was mounted using one inch long grade 8 bolts
and fasteners. A washer goes under the head of the bolt, two washers go between the clamp
and the bracket, and a nut gets wiggled down into the channel of the bracket. The washers
are necessary to prevent the bolt end from bottoming against the bracket and to fill the
space between the u-clamp and bracket.
