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Assembling the Chassis of STALKERV6 #29 Page Three
This afternoon was a major milestone in the build of Stalker #29 because it became a car! The engine and transmission were fitted into the chassis along with the driveshaft and remote shifter. The flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, fork and the tranny were mounted to the engine while the engine was on the hoist and the entire unit was coerced into the frame. I removed the headlights to prevent damage and the radiator because I don't think it would be possible to work the engine past it. The steering shaft was also removed to make it easier to access the left engine mount pad. The engine mounts and their brackets were attached to the engine while it was on the hoist. The transmission mount was dropped into place on the bracket in the tunnel. I suggest that 1/2" of the stud on the transmission mount be cut off so a standard socket can be used to tighten the nut. The oil was drained from the tranny to prevent a mess when the transmission was pointed down toward the tunnel. There is nothing to keep oil in the transmission when the driveshaft is removed. The borrowed engine hoist (thanks, Mark!) barely slid beneath the low-slung Stalker. The alternator had not yet been installed and that was probably a good thing since clearances are tight getting the engine into the bay. Dennis has dimensioned the frame to allow just enough clearance for the engine/transmission unit to slip into place. As I guided the gearbox tailpiece down the tunnel, Michael slowly lowered the engine with the hoist. By progressively working the engine back into the bay (we actually rolled the chassis forward) and lowering simultaneously, the engine was in place in short order. A floor jack was used to support the transmission as we lined up the engine mounts. A couple of tugs on the mounts to slide them into place so bolts could be dropped into the holes.......and the Stalker had an engine! Once again, it is uncanny how accurately the engine mount pads and transmission mount bracket are fitted into the frame. Dennis and Justin have truly done themselves proud with the accuracy of the dimensions on this car, and no embarrassing vocabulary or other show of untoward behavior was necessary to get the engine and transmission nestled into place.
This photo shows the tight but adequate clearance between the left engine mount and the steering shaft. You may be able to see the 1/4" bolt in the U-joint; when the bolt is pulled out, the other U-joint can slide down the steering rack shaft enough after its setscrew is loosened to remove the shaft. Access to the oil filter is good.
Another view of how the steering shaft works around the engine. The U-joints are pricey but very precisely made.
The stubby driveshaft is easily worked into the tunnel so the forward yoke can be inserted into the transmission tailpiece. I went on faith and had the shaft shortened per Dennis's dimensions and it fit perfectly......of course!
We now have a car! I was relieved to see the front suspension settle nicely with the weight of the engine so the suspension components were aligned properly. The radiator and lights were reinstalled along with the steering shaft. The various fittings associated with the remote shifter were brought into close proximity and bolted together.
We are at the point where 75% is done.......with 75% to go!
The fuel system has been completed. A 90 degree AN8 fitting was joined with braided hose to connect the tank with the fuel pump. By the way, I keep a bottle of STP Oil Treatment in the shop for use as a lubricant when making hoses. That stuff is the slimiest goop known to man!
Also visible is the el cheapo fuel filter that is used to terminate the differential vent hose.
Note: this photo was made before I installed a fuel filter. The stainless braid needs to be terminated somehow since the wire strands are not only unsightly, but very prone to inflicting injury if you brush against them. A neat way to terminate the braided hose is to put heat shrink tubing over the end of the braid. The #8 hose was too large for the barb supplied with the pump, so an adapter was used to transition up to a larger barb. The hose was then secured with a small clamp. Also visible is the plate to which the pump mounts.
Update: Even though the Facet fuel pump has worked flawlessly for nearly 4000 miles, the clacking noise it makes can be irritating at times. I isolated the pump from the mount with a rubber pad, but the noise of the diaphragm action was still noticeable. I replaced the Facet with a Carter P4070 rotary pump. This pump only makes a modest hum while it is running and can't be heard once the engine is started. It came with all necessary fittings and a bracket which is bolted to an aluminum plate that is attached to the frame rails.
The fuel cap has a vent to allow air into the tank as gas is consumed, but a vent has to be provided that will allow air to escape the tank when it gets warm. I removed the AN check valve and replaced it with a concoction of stuff I had left over from the brake system. It turns out that a 1/8" NPT tee is just the right size to serve as a tee nut to clamp a 1/8" NPT by 3/8"-24 adapter and a homemade aluminum washer in the hole left by the check valve. I used RTV to glue the combination of fittings and washer into the hole and it turned out to be very secure. A left-over length of 3/16" brake line was attached to the adapter; the line was bent into the shape shown and clamped to the frame member. The loop is necessary to prevent fuel from siphoning out of the tank.
The firewall end of the 3/8" fuel (brake) line terminates with an adapter and barb so #6 braided line can be run to the fuel fitting on the carb. A "Pro Clamp" was used on the carb barb to dress up that end of the line.
2/25/04
The cowl needed to be attached to the dash and firewall since I am ready to begin instrument panel work. 1/8" holes were drilled on 6" centers through the cowl, panel, and steel panel bow for #8 phillips head screws. Note: An alternative method is to install the dash without the fasteners around the perimeter of the dash. By building up the bow with tape until the dash is a tight fit in the bow, it can be secured with only two 1/4" bolts through the bow right above the frame longerons.
The firewall was attached to the cowl in the same manner. The cowl is not attached to the sides of the frame because once it is secured to the firewall and panel bow, it can't go anywhere.
It is easier to form the tunnel top panel after the shifter is in place so the cutout can be accurately located. The long edges of the panel are not parallel since the tunnel tapers toward the instrument panel. I bent flanges on each end of the top to conceal the junctions with the seat back and instrument panel. A boot will be added later to the shifter.
A protractor is useful for measuring the bends required in the tunnel top. The top was fastened to the tunnel with #8 phillips head screws by drilling through the flanges of the tunnel side panels and into the tunnel frame members.
The shifter boot is Mr. Gasket part #9648 from Autozone. The knob is vintage S-10 that came with the transmission.
Update: Here is a cool option for an alternate shift knob. The 1 7/8" diameter chromed-plated aluminum knob is part #6940K52 from McMaster-Carr. It has a 3/8"-16 thread that fits the Stalker shifter. Be advised that some states require the knob to have shift pattern marking; this may be a mod that will need to be made after the car is registered.
The rear fenders were fitted. There are four screws with fender washers attaching each fender. A 1.25" hole was drilled in each fender flange to clear the upper trailing arm bolt. A small notch was cut in teh flange so the forward bottom edge of the fender could fit just about even with the lower trailing arm bolt. The fenders are located 3/4" below the roll bar plate.
Continue to Chassis, page four
Back to Assembling the Chassis, page two Return to StalkerV6 Front page |
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2/22/04
It has been three weeks since assembly of Stalker #29 began. While
we are certainly not attempting to see how quickly the car can be assembled, it is obvious
that this is primarily a bolt-together project. The Stalker is very appropriate for a
novice builder's first project, and is an easy and quick build for an experienced
fabricator. No welding has been required, and all components necessary to get to this
point have been either in the kit or available from auto parts stores or well-known
performance car websites. As is the case with any major shop project, organization and
sourcing parts in a timely manner are crucial to rapid progress. 
2/23/04
