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Assembling the STALKERV6 Bodywork Page Two
2/3/04 First step in fabricating the tunnel sides is to measure for the angle that matches the seat back. The tunnel sides are attached to the seat back via a flange that we need to form on the ends of the sides. I placed the sheet stock on top of the 1.25" frame rails; be sure the aft end of the stock is resting on the crossmember of the frame that carries the bottom of the seat back.
A 3.5" piece of wood (1x4) was placed snugly against the seat back so the seat angle could be transferred to the tunnel side.
Another line was drawn 1.5" from the first line. This is actually the trim line since the first line is the fold line for the mounting flange. Line on left is fold line, line on right is trim line. The end of the tunnel side can now be cut.
A sheet metal brake sure would be nice, but I don't have one. The faithful WorkMate was pressed into service as a brake. By placing the 1x4 against the fold line and gradually making the bend, a fairly decent flange was formed. The side was returned to the frame, and marks were made for the notches for the rails in the floor. Once the notches had been cut, a trim line was drawn 3/4" above the top tunnel rail and that line was cut. Some reliefs were also cut per the Stalker instructions so the top flange would form more easily.
This is the noisy part (hearing protection is not a bad idea). The 1x4 was securely clamped to the side and the top flange was formed by working it down with a plastic mallet. The 1x4 needs to be moved to follow the various angles of the tunnel.
The finished tunnel side. Fabricating the second side went quickly since I now knew what I was doing! This was my first experience at forming metal and it actually went quite well.
2/4/04 Initial fitting of the firewall consisted of establishing the location of the firewall by trial fitting the fiberglass cowl. Marks were drawn on the side panels to indicate the forward location of the cowl and a wood strip was clamped at that location. Measurements were taken to locate the cutout for the reinforcing bar at the rear of the engine compartment and a notch cut so the firewall would drop into place.
2/5/04 Both the firewall and cowl were placed on the floor, centered in reference to each other, then a line drawn that followed the contour of the cowl. It is safe to cut 1/4" inside the line since the cowl has ample flange area.
This is a good time to fit the instrument panel since it fits between the cowl and cowl hoop. This will impact the final location of the cowl. It was necessary to trim the console part of the panel to get the bottom flange of the panel to nest snugly against the crossbar of the cowl hoop. Once the center and ends of the panel were trimmed properly, a line was scribed around the outside edge of the hoop and the panel trimmed to the line.
The outside forward corner of the cowl needs to be relieved so the cowl will rest flat on the side panel flange. I also relieved the flange on the interior of the forward corners so the firewall would have adequate room to nest properly.
I checked inside the cowl to find areas of the firewall that prevented the cowl for fitting down on the side panels properly. These spots were marked and trimmed until the cowl would rest tightly against the side panels. Fit and trim, fit and trim, fit and trim.... However, there is no need to obsess over trimming the firewall/cowl junction since it is hidden by the flange on the cowl, just get it where the cowl will mate nicely with the side panels.
Holes were drilled on 2" centers on the frame longerons and crossmember for fasteners that will secure the firewall and forward ends of the side panels.
All that remains of the instrument panel fitting is minor sanding on the ends and console where it joins the transmission tunnel.
Continue to Bodywork, page three
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