To sculpt the sides, I used a table saw and three router bits: a 1/2" cove bit, a 3/4" roundover bit, and a 1/4" round nose bit.

1. Start with 2-3/4" x 3/4" maple board.

   

2. Cut the board into two 1-1/8" wide sections.

   

3. Scoop out the inside edge of each section with the cove bit.

   

4. Glue the two sections back together.

   

5. Route the recess for the dowel accent using the round nose bit.

   

6. Contour the outer edges with the roundover bit raised to make a partial cut instead of a full quarter-round cut.

   

I glued the dowel accents to the sides before making the miter cuts so the accents were the same length as the sides.

I did not create detailed drawings for the various parts inside the plinth (the corner braces and blocks for the transport screws). I just used the original plinth as a guide, and duplicated those parts as closely as I could.

Because the plinth is shallow (short), the three posts for the suspension springs contacted the top of the base, as did the underside of the tonearm mount. To eliminate those contact points, I drilled 1/2" holes for the suspension posts and routed a recess for the tonearm mount.