Sculling oars can be found in many different configurations, styles, etc. and the oar
that works well for one person may not for the next. Experimenting with all the different
variables is the key to finding the oar that suits you the best.
Most sculling oars that I have seen are of 2 piece construction with the oar shaft v-notched
into the oar blade and held in place with marine glue and fiberglass tape. Some of these oars
are built from a single piece of wood and are usually very rigid.
* Photo by courtesy of Scott Farris
The curvature of the oar is typically in the blade portion. This crooked feature that is found on most sculling oars is usually created by shaving one of the face-sides of the blade or by "steam-bending." Then by shaving this face-side of the blade closest to the edges produces a concave or "foil" effect which creates more friction with the water and produces more power from the oar to the water vs. a completely flat-sided blade.
* Photo by courtesy of Greg Stender
These oars usually have a notch or some other indicator cut into the handle end so that the
sculler can determine blade position by a simple touch. The oar will flex or whip when worked
against the water. The easiest oar to learn to scull with, and the most forgiving, is the oar
with the most flex. The stiffer oars seem to be the oar of preference for the more experienced
oarsman and will tolerate a more powerful stroke. Many scullers will learn with a very flexible
oar and later stiffen it up by adding layers of fiberglass cloth as their level of expertise
increases and are able to generate more power and control.
Douglas Fir, Spruce and laminates are amoung the popular types of woods that are used in making
these sculling oars. They seem to provide a good strength-to-weight ratio and yet still have a
good degree of pliability.
* Photo by courtesy of Greg Stender