We all like to be able to see at night. It's a big safety issue! On my Nova and Century, and my company vehicle, the lights have been beefed up by installation of direct-wiring to the battery through high-current relays. The factory original wiring and switch only carry the signal to ooperate the relay.

This configuration allows removes the voltage drop caused by the excessive length and high number of connectors in the factory wiring. Also, the wiring used is heavier (I used 12 AWG) and can support high wattage lamps that would damage the factory wiring and switch.

The black box tothe left of the coolant bottle houses the light and cooling fan relays. The box keeps rain from dripping in on the electrical parts

With the cover removed, you can see the circuit breakers (gold and silver boxes near center of PDB box); and the relays for the lights, horn, and cooling fan. The big 75 amp Bosch relay in the upper right corner of the box is for the 16" Spal electric fan. The whole box has a power feed directly from the battery positive stud. The car's factory front lighting harness used to go over the drivers-side fender directly to the lights. It has been extended and re-routed to the passengers side and all the circuits terminate at this power distribution box.

This picture is from standing directly above the header panel looking between the header and core support. The large blue and orange wires are the new #12AWG wires for the headlights. It can support a 20 amp load on each circuit. At 12V that would be a 240 watt lamp at EACH of the light positions, 2 high beams, 2 low beams, and 2 auxiliary lamps! Needles to say, this is oversized wiring for the 100 watt high beams and 55 watt low beams, and 100 watt auxiliary lights installed in this car!

The lights are noticable brighter and whiter than they were with the factory wiring.

Also visible is the 120 amp Delco CS-144 alternator. With all the electronic and high-power accessories I need every watt I can get!