6 June 2003 -
Today I started to disassemble the transmission. The photo shows the unrestored state.
The first part removed was the shifter. The four
bolts holding the shifter to the transmission were removed. With these removed
the shifter came right up. Notice the paper gasket.
Next I removed the rubber
hardy disk from the output shaft. Then I pressed the rubber disk out of the
metal ring that holds it in place. Overall it is pliable and I think reusable.
The photo shows the special nut that holds the adapter on the output shaft. I
am going to contact Ed Korn to see if he has a tool to remove this nut.
11 June 2003 - It turns
out that the small tool that Ed Korn offers fits just fine. It has a 0.83"
outer diameter, 0.555" inner hole, and pin width of 0.19". I received
the tool, clamped the output shaft plate in a vice (the two circular posts) and
loosened up the nut. After getting it loose I would not have attempted to do
this without the tool. Notice the small holes around the nut. In one of these
there is a locking pin the needs to be tapped out.
14 June 2003 - I found
out that there is an easier way to lock the input and output shaft for removal
on the nuts. The photo shows the gear selectors in the neutral position
By pushing both gear
selectors forward simultaneously the transmission locks in place so both the
input and output shaft will not rotate. Now the nuts can be removed.
To remove the nut on the
input shaft I had to bend the lock washer. Next using a 29mm socket on a 3'
breaker bar I loosened the nut easily. I placed one foot on the transmission to
keep it from moving. The photo shows the breaker bar and socket on the nut.
The photo shows the input
gear once removed. Notice the grooves on the gear shaft. The seal for this gear
will also be felt. I will probably do the sleeve/modern seal upgrade like I did
for the flywheel
I removed the special nut
and spacer from the output shaft. The nut on the output shaft had several holes
in it around the perimeter. I used the tool from Ed Korn to remove the nut. I
started to remove this using the small gear puller. It was not budging. So I
got the big one out. It came right off.
The transmission output
shaft disk has the same grooves and felt seal. Will look into upgrading this
seal as well.
I removed the 5 bolts
that secured the cover over the input shaft. There are two pins in the cover
that secure it to the housing. I am pointing to the lower one with the punch. I
had to pry the cover off of the pins.
The right side of the
cover was cast for a felt seal (input shaft). Notice the oil passage on the
left side of the cover.
There was a ~0.022"
shim on top of the bearing (under the cover) on the input shaft.
The photo shows two
bearings. Left 6303, Right 6205.
15 June 2003 - I removed
the bracket above the input shaft that secures the shaft that the shift levers
slide on. I heated both the front and rear of the case with the torch and
tapped the shaft through (from the rear, above the output shaft). Next I pulled
the shift levers out through the top of housing. Both levers had the same
number cast in them so I believe they are interchangeable.
The photo shows the
shaft, shift levers, ball bearings that lock the levers in place.
With the shift levers
out, the rear of the transmission pulled right out.
The rear plate came out
with the gears intact.
17 June 2003 - I spent a
while looking at the gear assembly that is adjacent to the kick-start lever.
This assembly turns the input shaft when the kick-start lever is depressed. The
photo below shows the top gear mated to the kick-start lever gear
On the kick-start lever
there is an arrow on one of the teeth. Notice the two arrows (screwdriver tip)
on the mating gear. For proper assembly the single arrow must mate between
these two.
This photo shows the
above gear on the carrier shaft (large gear). There is another alignment mark
on the top of the small gear (pointing to it with the screwdriver). On the top
of the shaft there is also another mark that this one aligns with (both marks
circled). So for proper assembly the gear must mate up to this shaft by the
alignment marks and the kick-start gear arrow must be located between the two
arrows on the small gear.
22 June 2003 - The photo
shows the degreased transmission housing.
The parts have now been
sandblasted. I am ready to send off the rear cover and front plates to get the
machining done for the modern oil seal upgrades.
30 June 2003 - Today I received
the parts I ordered from Vech as well as the cad plated nuts and bolts from the
engine. The parts from Vech included the four transmission bearings, new seals,
and speedi-sleeve seal upgrades. I am going to carry the transmission plates to
the machine shop to get them machined to accept the new seals. The photo below
shows removal of output shaft rear bearing. The process was to heat up the
small pressed on gear section, which is right above the bearing. This gear
section mates with the speedometer drive gear. As heat was applied, the bearing
along with the gear were pulled off using the small gear puller.
July 1 2003 - Today I dropped the front and
rear transmission covers off along with the seals to get them machined for the
new seals. I also removed and installed the four bearings on the gear shafts.
All of the bearings pressed on with little effort (of course I have a 12-ton
press). Probably not much work going to be happening tomorrow as I am supposed
to pick up a 1969 BSA Thunderbolt project (apart, not running - total
restoration).
July 2 2003 - I picked
up the machined covers that had the new oil seals installed from the machine
shop. Quick turnaround, good work. Basically the outer lip that held the felt
seals in place was machined away. The lower lip remained in place and supports
the bottom of the oil seal.
Notice the seal for the
output shaft as well as the seal for the kick start lever. This weekend I will
put the speedi sleeves on the input gear and output gear to give the new oil
seals a smooth surface spin against.
July 3 2003 - Today I
removed and installed the input shaft rear bearing. Next I heated up the rear
cover and installed the input and output shaft.
The photo shows the
input and output shaft gears with the machined grooves. I am going to modify
them for use with my modern seals.
The JB Weld is applied
to the grooves to seal the oil path
The speedi sleeves are
pressed on. This allows a smooth oil seal surface for the new seals. Once the
JB Weld cures I will grind down the over lapping lip.
Transmission gaskets are
not available from the U.S. sources. So I went down to NAPA auto parts and
bought a sheet of their thin gasket material. It is about 5 thousands thicker
than the removed gaskets. I do not know the original thickness of the original
gaskets prior to installation, so I think it will be fine. I traced the
original gaskets and cut out new ones with an exacto knife.
July 4 2003 - Today was
transmission assembly day. I only assembled and disassembled it 3 times to get
it right. The first two times it went together well, when I tightened the bolts
on the rear cover that last 1/2 turn the kick-start lever and input shaft would
bind up. I filled the tranny with oil hoping that lubrication would help
everything free up. No luck! Drain the transmission, pull it apart and I found
the source of the binding. Apparently when I removed the rear cover, did some
bearing work, or something else, the brass bushing that passes through the rear
cover got pushed in slightly. This bushing is for the gear assembly that
connects the kick-starter to the rest of the transmission gears (circled in
green). I re-heated the rear cover and tapped the bushing until it was flush
with the housing. I reassembled the transmission and everything operated, as it
should. The photo below shows the kick-starter and the gear assembly that was
binding aligned (alignment marks circled in red) up using the alignment arrows.
The photo shows the
finished transmission. Of course there are a few finishing touches. I am going
to get the exterior nuts and washers plated or get new ones. I found out that
the speedometer gear was worn and does not work right, so I am going to look
for a replacement or someone who can rework it.
9 July 2003 - I have
found a replacement speedo gear and am anxious to get it. From further study of
photo's in the catalog. I am sure that once I get the replacement it will have
gear teeth that are straight. The photo shows that my original gear has a
curvature to the teeth. I could see some wear so I thought that it was designed
this way originally, as the curvature is uniform all the way around. However
when I rotated the output shaft the gear would turn slightly and then stop as
if there was no gear mesh.
16 July 2003 - The new
gear I ordered from Mike at Blitz Bikes came in. It looks good. I installed it
in the transmission and all is well. The photo shows the new gear next to the
original gear.