Table of Contents

Introduction

AKC and Quality

What Makes a Scottish Terrier?

The Scottish Terrier Standard

Things to Consider before Breeding

Why are you breeding?

Genetic Diseases

VonWillibrand’s Disease (vWD)

Scottie Cramp

Craniomandibular Osteopathy (CMO)

Epilepsy

Thyroid Deficiencies

Other Diseases

Bruceocellosis

Responsible Breeding

Resources for More Information
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

INTRODUCTION

I have owned, or been owned by, Scottish Terriers for the last ten years. In that time I have come to learn much about the "towsy tyke" from Scotland. I have learned how to groom them, gotten involved in rescue, and learned about their faults, and their virtues. I can honestly say, I don’t ever want to be without one in my life again. They are very special creatures, though not the dog for everybody.

I have gained the most of my knowledge over the last few years from an Internet email list called the Cyberscots list. This list is a conglomeration of Scottie breeders, owners, and fanciers from all corners of the globe. Most of our members are from the United States, but we also have members in New Zealand, Mexico, Canada, and Europe. There is no better collection of knowledge than that of a group of people dedicated to the breed, that are willing to share their wisdom with novices and old-hand’s alike. And they do just that. They pass their knowledge on in the hopes of educating a new generation of Scottie breeders and owners.

The motivation behind the writing of this booklet is to help spread some of that knowledge to people who don’t have access to, or don’t know where to look for that kind of knowledge. I encounter people all the time that say that they want to breed their Scottish Terrier, yet, they haven’t the foggiest notion about how diseases, temperament, and physical type are passed on. And when you put two dogs together to breed without concern for these things, you loose the essence of what you are trying to create.

Scottish Terriers were selectively bred for decades to achieve the look and character that we know and love today. When you start breeding without regard for those things people have worked so hard to keep alive in the breed, you face loosing the breed altogether. When you have a Scottie with a long back, soft coat, crooked gait, undesirable temperament, mis-set eyes and ears, flat head or misshapen bite, you no longer have a "true" Scottish Terrier. And this is exactly what happens when people breed their dogs without regard for their dog, its background, the dog they are breeding to, or the puppies that they could produce.

I hope that you can find the information herein useful in making your decision weather to breed or not to breed. And if you do choose to breed, I hope that you do so responsibly, lest we eventually loose a breed that we cherish.
 
 
 
 

AKC REGISTERED AND QUALITY

Whenever I am speaking to someone about breeding their dog, I usually ask the same questions: Does the dog have a good temperament? Have you had the dog tested for various ailments that could be passed on? Have you researched the pedigree? Invariably the answers to one or more questions is "no". When I suggest that this dog might not be suitable for breeding, because of poor temperament, or known health problems, the first words out of their mouths are always "But he/she is AKC registered!"

The AKC or American Kennel Club makes no guarantees or claims about the genetic soundness of ANY dog. They are merely a registering body. Just because a dog has "papers" doesn’t mean that it is suitable for breeding. This quote was taken from the AKC’s website at: http://www.akc.org/register.htm.

Every dog has "faults", things that are not consistent with the breed standard that makes it not worthy of being shown in the show ring. (Yes, even those dogs in the show ring have faults, but in most cases they are very minimal.) Misaligned teeth, wrong movement and wrong coat type are some of these faults. This in no way hampers the ability of your Scottie to be a loving and faithful pet, but it usually isn’t a good idea to pass those "faults" on, where they could also be compounded by the dog you are breeding to. Say your female has a slightly undershot jaw, and the male that you breed her to has a slightly undershot jaw or possibly one of his parents or grandparents did. You could conceivably end up with one or more puppies in your litter that are unattractive more resembling a Pekinese than a Scottie, or worse case scenario have to be euthanized because their jaws are so undershot, they would never be able to eat. Why? Because you chose to pass on a trait that was compounded and exaggerated by the two dogs that you bred together.

WHAT MAKES A SCOTTISH TERRIER?

What makes a Scottish Terrier different from other dogs? Well, truthfully, it’s many things. Things that have taken years of selective breeding to create. It is a combination of temperament, attitude, appearance, personality and purpose. All these things combined add up to what we know as the modern day Scottish Terrier.

The temperament of a Scottish Terrier should be sound. He should not be aggressive to people, and should allow himself to be handled without fear for routine bathing, grooming and vetting. Dogs that are extremely aggressive to people and/or other animals shouldn’t be bred for fear of passing that aggression along to the puppies.

Attitude is important in these fellows as well. Scotties are alert, demanding, fearless, and sometimes cunning and manipulative too. To quote a poem, Description of the Scottish Terrier, "…Fair play, I’ll back the brave wee chap, To fecht the de’il himsel’." And I do believe that these sturdy little dogs could give the Devil a good run for his money!

The appearance of the Scottish Terrier is unique among dogs. They have short, cobby bodies, long noses covered with an ample beard, bushy eyebrows, and well set prick ears. The head is perched atop a muscular neck, which slopes gracefully into strong, well-muscled shoulders. The dog should give the appearance of "power in a small package". Colors include: Black, wheaton, grey, brindle, grizzled, and sandy. White is ONLY allowed on the chin and chest, and to a very slight extent.

The personality of these lovely little fellows should be alert and gay. Though not usually taking to strangers very quickly, most Scotties eventually accept regular guests, if not ignoring them altogether. They are warm and loving family companions with boundless energy, but they can be quite stubborn sometimes, making that energy somewhat hard to control. Most Scotties are fiercely loyal to their families, but generally bond with one person in particular.

Scottish terriers, like most dogs, were bred for one particular purpose. They were bred to kill vermin. You name it; they killed it, from fox and rats, to badgers, weasels and otters. Losing livestock to the farmer could mean the difference between having plenty of food the next winter, and possibly starving to death, so Scotties were bred to do their job and do it well. They were also bred to work independently of the farmer (thus giving them their sometimes aloof attitude). The farmer needed dogs that he could turn loose and let them do their own work, he didn’t have time to go with them and tell them where the vermin were. (A shy or insecure dog that held onto the farmer’s coat-tails all day just wouldn’t do at all.) So it was the Scotties job to seek them out himself.

All of these aspects add up to create the dogs we know today as the Scottish terrier. Careful breeding over the last century has refined and kept these characteristics intact. But without careful breeding practices, you loose the "stuff" that makes a Scottie a Scottie. And if it isn’t a Scottie, it’s something else!

SCOTTISH TERRIER STANDARD

The Scottish Terrier Breed Standard is the description of the ideal Scottish terrier. It is also the guideline that breeders use to follow when breeding their dogs. Of course no one dog can match up to the standard in every respect, but being very close is what earns a dog its Championship title. When dogs are judged in the show ring, they are not judged against the other dogs, but rather judged against the judge’s interpretation of the standard. (Which, depending on the judge, can vary infinitely.) You always wondered how they could judge a poodle, against a Golden, against a Scottie, against a German Shepherd didn’t you?

The Scottish Terrier breed standard is included here so that you may familiarize yourself with it, and have a guide to judge your own dog by.

General Appearance:The Scottish Terrier is a small, compact, short-legged, sturdily-built dog of good bone and substance. His head is long in proportion to his size. He has a hard, wiry, weather-resistant coat and a thick-set, cobby body which is hung between short, heavy legs. These characteristics, joined with his very special keen, piercing, "varminty" expression, and his erect ears and tail are salient features of the breed. The Scottish Terrier's bold, confident, dignified aspect exemplifies power in a small package.

Size, Proportion, Substance: The Scottish Terrier should have a thick body and heavy bone. The principal objective must be symmetry and balance without exaggeration. Equal consideration shall be given to height, weight, length of back and length of head. Height at withers for either sex should be about 10 inches. The length of back from withers to set-on of tail should be approximately 11 inches. Generally, a well-balanced Scottish Terrier dog should weigh from 19 to 22 pounds and a bitch from 18 to 21 pounds.

Head: The head should be long in proportion to the overall length and size of the dog. In profile, the skull and muzzle should give the appearance of two parallel planes. The skull should be long and of medium width, slightly domed and covered with short, hard hair. In profile, the skull should appear flat. There should be a slight but definite stop between the skull and muzzle at eye level, allowing the eyes to be set in under the brow, contributing to proper Scottish Terrier expression. The skull should be smooth with no prominence or depressions and the cheeks should be flat and clean. The muzzle should be approximately equal to the length of skull with only a slight taper to the nose. The muzzle should be well filled in under the eye, with no evidence of snippiness. A correct Scottish Terrier muzzle should fill an average man's hand. The nose should be black, regardless of coat color, and of good size, projecting somewhat over the mouth and giving the impression that the upper jaw is longer than the lower. The teeth should be large and evenly spaced, having either a scissors or level bite, the former preferred. The jaw should be square, level and powerful. Undershot or overshot bites should be penalized. The eyes should be set wide apart and well in under the brow. They should be small, bright and piercing, and almond-shaped not round. The color should be dark brown or nearly black, the darker the better. The ears should be small, prick, set well up on the skull and pointed, but never cut. They should be covered with short velvety hair. From the front, the outer edge of the ear should form a straight line up from the side of the skull. The use, size, shape and placement of the ear and its erect carriage are major elements of the keen, alert, intelligent Scottish Terrier expression.

Neck, Topline, Body: The neck should be moderately short, strong, thick and muscular, blending smoothly into well laid back shoulders. The neck must never be so short as to appear clumsy. The body should be moderately short with ribs extending well back into a short, strong loin, deep flanks and very muscular hindquarters. The ribs should be well sprung out from the spine, forming a broad, strong back, then curving down and inward to form a deep body that would be nearly heart-shaped if viewed in cross-section. The topline of the back should be firm and level. The chest should be broad, very deep and well let down between the forelegs. The forechest should extend well in front of the legs and drop well down into the brisket. The chest should not be flat or concave, and the brisket should nicely fill an average man's lightly-cupped hand. The lowest point of the brisket should be such that an average man's fist would fit under it with little or no overhead clearance. The tail should be about seven inches long and never cut. It should be set on high and carried erectly, either vertical or with a slight curve forward, but not over the back. The tail should be thick at the base, tapering gradually to a point and covered with short, hard hair.

Forequarters: The shoulders should be well laid back and moderately well knit at the withers. The forelegs should be very heavy in bone, straight or slightly bent with elbows close to the body, and set in under the shoulder blade with a definite forechest in front of them. Scottish Terriers should not be out at the elbows. The forefeet should be larger than the hind feet, round, thick and compact with strong nails. The front feet should point straight ahead, but a slight "toeing out" is acceptable. Dew claws may be removed.

Hindquarters: The thighs should be very muscular and powerful for the size of the dog with the stifles well bent and the legs straight from hock to heel. Hocks should be well let down and parallel to each other.

Coat: The Scottish Terrier should have a broken coat. It is a hard, wiry outer coat with a soft, dense undercoat. The coat should be trimmed and blended into the furnishings to give a distinct Scottish Terrier outline. The dog should be presented with sufficient coat so that the texture and density may be determined. The longer coat on the beard, legs and lower body may be slightly softer than the body coat but should not be or appear fluffy.

Color: Black, wheaten or brindle of any color. Many black and brindle dogs have sprinklings of white or silver hairs in their coats which are normal and not to be penalized. White can be allowed only on the chest and chin and that to a slight extent only.

Gait: The gait of the Scottish Terrier is very characteristic of the breed. It is not the square trot or walk desirable in the long-legged breeds. The forelegs do not move in exact parallel planes; rather, in reaching out, the forelegs incline slightly inward because of the deep broad forechest. Movement should be free, agile and coordinated with powerful drive from the rear and good reach in front. The action of the rear legs should be square and true and, at the trot, both the hocks and stifles should be flexed with a vigorous motion. When the dog is in motion, the back should remain firm and level.

Temperament: The Scottish Terrier should be alert and spirited but also stable and steady-going. He is a determined and thoughtful dog whose "heads up, tails up" attitude in the ring should convey both fire and control. The Scottish Terrier, while loving and gentle with people, can be aggressive with other dogs. He should exude ruggedness and power, living up to his nickname, the "Diehard."

Penalties: Soft coat; curly coat; round, protruding or light eyes; overshot or undershot jaws; obviously oversize or undersize; shyness or timidity; upright shoulders; lack of reach in front or drive in rear; stiff or stilted movement; movement too wide or too close in rear; too narrow in front or rear; out at the elbow; lack of bone and substance; low set tail; lack of pigment in the nose; coarse head; and failure to show with head and tail up are faults to be penalized.

Approved October 12, 1993/ Effective November 30, 1993

THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE BREEDING

Before you breed your Scottie, there are many, many areas that you should consider. First and foremost, you need to decide what is the real reason that you want to breed your Scottie. Do you want to make a little money? Do you want another one just like him/her? Do you want to pass on a specific trait, such as a wonderful, loving personality? Do you want your children/family to experience, first hand the miracle of birth? Do you think your Scottie should be bred at least once before having them spayed or neutered?

WHY ARE YOU BREEDING?

If you are doing it because you want to make a little money, I suggest you take a long hard look at what you are getting into. Even if you think you have homes for all the pups, before your bitch is even bred, remember that people change their mind. In a 1987 survey by Linda Johnson, published in the February 1987 AKC Gazette, the average loss of money per litter was $ 1,275!!! (And that has nothing to do with the time required of a litter of puppies as well.) Where does that number come from you ask? Well, firstly the bitch needs to be current on all her vaccinations, and have a thorough pre-breeding checkup (this is assuming you have already had her tested for everything else under the sun). You have a stud fee, which is usually upwards of $200. You have food costs (she’s eating for 5 or more now) as well as veterinary care throughout the pregnancy. You have puppies to be fed, vetted and wormed (that’s assuming that whelping and delivery went well) and most puppies don’t leave the breeder until an average 10 weeks of age. By then they have needed to be wormed twice and had one if not two sets of shots. If you multiply that up, times 6 or even 8 puppies….it adds up very quickly. And that’s even considering that you don’t have a sick puppy that needs special medical attention. And the longer you have to keep those puppies, the more expense that you will incur. Anyway you look at it; you are going to be in the hole.

Another reason people say they want to breed their Scottie is that they want another one "just like him/her" or they just want another Scottie. That is all well and good, but it takes two dogs to make a litter of puppies, which means two backgrounds, two personalities and two temperaments. You may breed to get a puppy just like your stud dog, and instead end up with one with the personality and temperament of the mother of the litter, which might not be to your liking at all. There are numerous factors that come into play here, and you are never guaranteed of the outcome. The safest way to get another puppy "just like yours" (and there is STILL no guarantee) is to contact your breeder, and ask for a pup from another breeding of the same two dogs that produced your puppy. If that isn’t possible, ask the breeder about getting one from a breeding very similar in nature to the one that produced your puppy.

Do you want to pass on a trait that you particularly like about your dog, such as an excellent temperament? Though this is a much better reason for breeding your Scottie, there are still things to think about. Again, it takes two to make a litter of puppies, so you need to be sure that the dog you are breeding to compliments your dog. Backgrounds are important too. Something that the grandparents of both sets of dogs had, like an unpredictable temperament, could manifest itself in this litter because the pedigrees don’t work together. Something that, if you don’t know anything about the pedigrees, you would have never seen coming. Also, you can’t just decide to breed a dog for one particular trait. It doesn’t work that way. Your dog is made up of hundreds of different aspects (coat, temperament, gait, personality, size, color, intelligence, teeth, feet, eyes, nose and so on) so it pays to make sure that you are breeding and complimenting more than one trait.

By far one of the worst reasons to breed your Scottie is to let your children experience the "miracle of birth." With all the cable television channels available today, somewhere, sometime you can find a program on the birth of a baby elephant, lion, buffalo, dog or cat. But its not first hand you say? Okay, fine. Contact your local veterinarian or breeder and ask them if they know of someone having puppies, and arrange to have it video taped, or to attend and watch in person. While you are at it, take a trip to your local animal shelter and take this opportunity to educate your family on the pet overpopulation problem. Millions of dogs and cats are put to death daily, because there aren’t enough homes for them all. Death is just as much a part of life as anything else, and something we must all face.

In breeding your "family pet" you also run the risk of something going terribly wrong, and loosing your beloved pet as well as a litter of puppies, or having an orphaned litter that you have to get up to feed every four hours. Puppies can die as well during labor. Birth is not always a joyous occasion; sometimes there is tremendous loss of life involved as well. Just another thing to consider if you really want to breed your Scottie.

Another common reason that people want to breed their pets is because they have heard that in order to have a well rounded and calm pet, they need to be bred at least once. I cannot think of a bigger myth than this one. That is completely untrue, and there is no scientific research to prove otherwise. On the contrary, spaying and neutering your pets is the best way to ensure that they have a safe, happy and healthy life. Early spaying and neutering can increase your pet’s life span dramatically. It reduces the risks of breast, ovarian and testicular cancer in pets, as well as eliminating undesirable behavior, such as marking, or getting out of the fence, and fighting by intact males, wondering off, and ill temperament in females.

Now you are thinking, with all the money, time, research and heartbreak that goes with breeding, why does anyone bother to breed Scottish Terriers? For one reason, and one reason alone: For the love and dedication that we have to the breed, and for the preservation and betterment of the characteristics that define the Scottish terrier, and to ensure that future generations will have this wonderful little dog to enjoy. That’s it. That is the only reason why responsible breeders breed their dogs. Some breeders finish many champions every year, and sometimes even those champions are not bred. Why? Because even though that particular dog may typify the breed, that dog doesn’t maintain the majority of characteristics that the breeder wants to pass on.

GENETIC DISEASES

Scottish Terriers, like all pure bred dogs are subject to certain inherited diseases and conditions that can be passed from generation to generation. Selective breeding techniques are being used by breeders to try and eliminate these traits from the Scottish Terrier’s gene pool. Your dog should be tested and/or evaluated for these disorders prior to breeding as well as being screened for hip dysplasia and eye problems.

Hip Dysplasia

Hip Dysplasia is a malformation of the ball and socked joint of the hip. Sometimes it affects one or both of the dog’s hips. It can range from mild, where there are no physical symptoms, to severe where the dog is almost completely crippled. It is characterized by stiffness in the back legs, lameness in one or both back legs, a "hopping" type of gait, trouble getting up and down, or arthritis like symptoms. Though this disease is not as common in smaller dogs as in larger breeds, it can and does happen. There is still some discussion as to whether this condition is totally inherited or not, but it is in the best interest of dogs not to breed a dysplastic dog. You can have your dog checked for hip dysplasia. Testing is done by sending a radiograph or x-ray to the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, or the OFA. The x-ray is then read by a team of canine orthopedic doctors, and given an evaluation of excellent to poor.

Scottie Cramp

This disorder seems to be the most wide spread disorder in the breed, but the least serious in terms of discomfort to the dog. This is not really a "cramp" of sorts, but instead the transmission of nerve impulses seems to get lost or scrambled on the way to the muscles. Causing the dog to loose coordination under stress or during brisk exercise. The dog may fall over, and appear to be having a seizure, but there is never any loss of consciousness, and the symptoms disappear almost immediately after the stress is removed.

Sometimes this condition is hard to detect, because young puppies often times learn to feel an episode coming on, and stop running or playing. Scottie cramp is a condition for life, but doesn’t impair a Scotties ability to be a loving and playful companion. Dogs showing any symptoms of Scottie Cramp should never be bred.

Von Willebrand’s Disease (vWD)

Von Willebrand’s Disease is an inherited bleeding disorder, occurring in several species of mammals. This disease is passed on as an autosomal trait, meaning one that is equally transmissible to both male and female animals. Though somewhat less severe than hemophilia, it can still cause a wealth of problems. Symptoms include, but are not limited to: excessive bleeding during surgery, prolonged bleeding when nails are trimmed too closely, hemorrhaging internally, bloody stools and blood appearing in the urine.

You can test your dog for vWD. A simple "cheek swab" test is available from a company called VetGen. They use the cheek cells to extract your dogs DNA and look for signs of the disease there.

Craniomandibular Osteopathy (CMO)

Craniomandibular Osteopathy or CMO is an abnormal growth of the mandible, or lower jawbone. The onset is usually in puppies ranging from 4-7 months of age. A puppy may show a strong desire not to have the mouth examined, and may also screech in pain if examined. Though this condition is treatable with steroids and other anti-inflammatory drugs, it causes the puppy much discomfort during early life. Other symptoms include fever, loss of appetite, and lethargy. Milder cases may go misdiagnosed as a virus or simple teething problems. CMO can be accurately diagnosed by x-ray.

As the dog matures, the jaw growth subsides and is virtually undetectable in adult dogs, even with an x-ray. Dogs exhibiting the symptoms of CMO should never be bred.

Epilepsy

Epilepsy can occur in canines, just as it can occur in people. Seizures can be caused and/or influenced by any of the following conditions: heat stroke, poision, or low levels of blood sugar. They can also be triggered by tumors of the brain, and the canine distemper virus. Responsible breeders are working hard to eliminate epilepsy from the Scottish Terriers heritage, only time will tell if it is working.

Seizures are characterized by excess salivation, stiffening or flailing of the limbs, dialated pupils, and oftentimes elimination occurs during or after the seizure. Dogs who experience seizure disorders are often placed on prescription medication, such as primidone or phenobarbitol to help alleviate the symptoms. It is important that dogs with a history of seizure disorder not be bred.

Thyroid Deficiencies

Thyroid Disorders come in two types, Hypothyroidism (an underproduction of hormones by the thyroid gland) and Hyperthyroidism (an over production of the hormones of the thyroid gland).

Symptoms of Hypothyroidism are: Coat loss or coat color change, skin allergies, weight gain without change in diet, infertility, intolerance of cold and/or exercise, and lethargy

Symptoms of Hyperthyroidism are: inability to gain weight, hyperexcitability, increased appitite and water consumption.

Dogs can be tested for either by a simple blood panel run by your veterinarian. Medications can be prescribed to treat both conditions. Thyroid deficiencies may or may not be inherited, but its best to exercise caution and not breed dogs with a history of thyroid problems.

OTHER DISEASES

Brucecellosis

This bacteria, known to also occur in humans, cattle and some wild mammals, is the leading cause of infertility in dogs in the U.S. Symptoms include: loss of vigor, decreased exercise tolerance, and lusterless coat. Brucecellosis is a major concern to breeders because it causes abortion or reabsorption of fetuses. This bacterium is spread by contact with uterine discharge from infected bitches, during mating, through the bitch’s milk and sometimes through the air. Testing by a reputable Veterinary Lab is the only way to check for sure. Both bitch and dog should be tested before each breeding. Dogs, which carry Brucecellosis, should never be bred.

This is not a comprehensive listing of the diseases of Scottish Terriers, but it offers a brief over view of the most common ones. Maintaining the health and quality of life of both adults and puppies should be a big priority in any breeder’s mind. These diseases range from mild and treatable to painful and fatal. So it is a good idea to have your dog screened for these disorders before breeding to ensure the breeding dogs health as well as the health of the puppies.

Responsible Breeding

So now that you are informed, you still want to breed your Scottish Terrier. You have had them checked and double-checked for everything under the sun. You have prepared yourself for disaster, and decided that you are breeding for all the right reasons. Now that the puppies are here…what else makes a responsible breeder? Take into consideration that you have brought these new lives into the world of your own accord. Each puppy will live an average of 12-15 years. Responsible breeders take that into consideration when they breed, and if at any point a pup does not work out or the new owners can no longer care for the puppy, they want the puppy back so that they know what kind of home it will be re-placed in.

Take the time to screen potential homes for each of your new puppies. This will ensure that the pups get loving homes and will be valued and cherished members of the family. Ask questions like how many hours are you at home a day to spend with the puppy? Do you have a fenced in yard? Do you have a pool? Could the puppy potentially fall in the pool and drown? Are you willing to provide routine healthcare for the puppy? (i.e., yearly vaccinations, heartworm prevention, worm medication, a healthy diet and so on)

Educate the new owners on the quirks and mannerisms of the breed. Remember: Scotties aren’t for everyone! Terriers have a tendency to dig, the may not always do well around small children, they are strong willed and stubborn. They need discipline. They need a fair amount of grooming to keep them looking their best. They need attention. After the family hears all this, they may decide that a Scottie wasn’t really what they were looking for after all. Don’t be afraid to turn ANY home down, because you think they won’t take good care of your puppy. Families that aren’t educated about the breed often have dogs that they make into "yard" dogs, because they bark, aren’t easily housetrained, are too hyper and not easy to control. Education paves the way to either eliminate or help the new families through these problems. And it isn’t necessary that you know all the answers, but you can at least provide resources (like this one) to the new families to help them better cope with their new puppy.

Also now that you know the dangers of breeding, you may want to sell all of your puppies on Spay/Neuter contracts. This means that no papers will be issued on the dog until the new owner has provided proof that the dog has been altered. Some breeders even charge $100-200 more for each puppy, and offer that money back as an incentive to get the new owners to have their puppies altered. This not only will add years to each new puppies life, but also keep them from adding to the pet overpopulation problem, and also help to reduce some common behavior problems.

As rescuers, when a dog comes into rescue and has registration papers, we call the breeder first, and ask them to take the dog back or help us care for the dog. It saddens us that some breeders don’t want to take their puppies back. They could care less; they look at those shiny black little eyes, wiggly bodies and cold noses and see only dollar signs, and nothing more. In reality, they are denying that those little black balls of fur have feelings, needs, wants, and personalities, that they can be hungry, thirsty, sad, neglected, abused and afraid. And people wonder why there are so many dogs put to sleep in shelters every year.

I hope that as you have read this booklet it has heightened your awareness of the pet overpopulation problem, of genetic disorders passed on by bad breeding practices, the dangers and expenses involved in breeding as well as assessing the real reason that you want to breed your dog. I hope that at least if this booklet hasn’t changed or reinforced your opinions, that you at least read it with an open mind, and will take this information and make the best of it. Please remember that the world needs fewer breeders, and more rescuers, because there simply just aren’t enough homes for them all.
 

RESOURCES FOR MORE INFORMATION:

These resources are provided as a means to helping you continue on if you have decided to breed, and find more information out about genetics and breeding practices before you breed your first litter.

The New Scottish Terrier by: Cindy Cooke April 1996, Howell House

The New Complete Scottish Terrier by: John T. Marvin (out of print)

This is the Scottish Terrier by: T. Allen Kirk, Jr., M.D. 1971 T.F.H. Publications (out of print)

Successful Dog Breeding: The Complete Handbook of Canine

Midwifery by: Chris Walkowicz, Mary Jung (Illustrator), Bonnie Wilcox (Contributor), 2^nd Edition, Jan. 1994, Howell House

Genetics of the Dog by: Malcolm B. Willis, August 1989, Howell House

The Standard Book of Dog Breeding: A New Look by: Alvin, Dr. Grossman, Luana Luther (Editor) May 1992, Doral Publishing

Dog Breeding : The Theory & the Practice by: Frank Jackson January 1995, Crowood

Breeding a Litter : The Complete Book of Prenatal and Postnatal Care by Beth J. Finder Harris, Beth J. Finder-Harris, March 1993, Howell House

The Book of the Bitch : A Complete Guide to Understanding and Caring for Bitches by: J. M. Evans, Kay White (Contributor) May 1997, MacMillan