Misson Statement and Protocol
(For information only, permission must be obtained by the author for distributive use)
By: D. Zinnes Breed specific refrences made by Bettina Rister
Mission Statement of Scottish Terrier Rescue
To save, through proper medical treatment , foster care, grooming, rehabilitation (if necessary), socialization and good nutrition those Scottish Terriers with sound temperaments who have been abandoned or whose owners can no longer care for them, and to find new, permanent homes where these dogs are well cared for.
Protocol
While many of the procedures outlined below are probably self-evident, in times of crisis or emergency many of us can forget to do the obvious. When that call from the shelter comes in and we are given 24 hours to save the dog, most of us can think of only one thing: how to get it to safety. It is useful, however, to stop and think through the steps that are typically necessary in these situations: the first rule of life-saving is not to put your own (or your animals') life in jeopardy.
Rescue dogs typically originate from two main sources --- shelters or owners.
Shelter Dogs
There are two broad types of shelters --- animal control organizations whose main goal is law enforcement and humane societies who attempt to find new homes for animals. The line between these two can be fuzzy, but the distinction is useful to note because it can often tell you something about the condition of the dog and the willingness of the organization to work with breed rescue organizations. The law enforcement mission of animal control organizations often means that these agencies have neither the funds nor staff to do anything more for a dog than to house it for a limited period of time until its owner reclaims it or it is euthanized. Humane societies, on the other hand, are concerned with the dog's welfare and attempt, if at all possible, to find it a new home. These organizations will therefore typically provide at least some limited medical treatment such as a heartworm check and a basic set of shots, do some limited temperament testing and sometimes some grooming. Not surprisingly, then, obtaining a rescue dog from a humane society can be a far pleasanter experience than from an animal control organization. The drawback, however, is that as placement agencies humane societies can be possessive of their animals; feeling that they do as good a job as anyone can, they may be far less willing to release a dog to a breed rescue group. These are not hard and fast distinctions --- there are animal control organizations that put humane societies to shame and there are humane societies that are indistinguishable from animal control organizations. But knowing the possible difference can help one anticipate potential conditions.
When a call from a shelter comes through --- someone has spotted a Scottie ---- it is useful to consider the following steps:
1. Is the dog indeed a Scottish Terrier? Shelters deal with many breeds and mixtures and are often staffed with young, inexperienced personnel unfamiliar with pure breds. Someone knowledgeable in the breed must check the dog. This can be less than straightforward --- I look for the following: wiry hair, typical coat colors, natural ears, head shape and body shape. But believe me, there are many variations on this theme! Some Scots, due to being out on their own for so long, may have been shaved entirely due to a matted coat, or due to allergies or illness may have less coat than normal.
2. Even more important is the temperament. Scotties tend to be one person, or one family oriented so a rescue in a Shelter setting may be a little less than personable, be sure to make sufficient allowance for the conditions in which the dog is living --- the fact that it may have been confined to a very small area, not provided with opportunities to potty, for long periods --- it is important to make a judgment call: if this dog were cleaned up, neutered/spayed, given adequate exercise, food and medical treatment and a bit of training, would it be a reasonably typical Scottish Terrier? Would you feel comfortable placing this dog in your own family?
3. If the dog passes the first two tests and the organization is willing to release the dog to breed rescue, the next step is to get as much information as possible about the dog: a) heartworm test? b) any shots? c) neutered/spayed? d) was the dog wormed? e) stray or owner release? f) if owner release, reason and any information on owner g) is there any information to indicate the breeder?
It is important to obtain whatever written documentation is available concerning the dog's background and medical treatment while at the shelter. If there is information concerning the breeder, the breeder should be contacted. (See Breeder Notification Form ) Some breeders (the reputable ones) will want the dog back.
4. Once the dog is released it should be checked by a veterinarian as soon as possible. Even if the shelter has provided the basic shots, it is important to have an additional medical check on the dog before it goes in to a foster care or new home, especially checking for VwD. Depending on what was done at the shelter, the dog should be given all shots, including a rabies shot, checked for worms and heartworm and neutered or spayed. At this point the vet can check for respiratory, eye, skin or other possible diseases. Neutering is particularly important for older male dogs since these dogs may mark when placed in new homes.
5. As equally important as the medical condition of the dog is its physical condition. Every effort should be made to groom the dog ---giving it a bath and brushing, clipping if necessary and check for fleas and ticks. If at all possible it is desirable to try and save the coat.
6. The clean, medically sound dog is now ready for a foster care setting. Sometimes foster care facilities are not available and it is necessary to place a dog immediately. If possible, however, the dog should be introduced into a household for at least a few days and observed. (My personal policy is to have a meeting on neutral territory, after initial screening, then one at my house, one afternoon at their house, then one weekend at the new owners house, then the dog comes back to me for one week while the family has final discussions about the placement.) This can provide extremely useful information for a new owner as well as suggest the best type of home for the dog. Some of the following issues should guide observation:
a. is the dog housebroken b. how does the dog behave on lead c. is the dog aggressive towards other dogs --- males, females d. how does the dog react to children e. what is the activity level of the dog --- high energy or more laid back f. how extensive is its barking g. can the dog be crate trained h. behavior around cats i. ability to travel easily in a car j. does it have any fears: male, females (some dogs have been mistreated by one sex or the other); collar shyness (some dogs have been disciplined with sharp corrections to the collar); settings (outside dogs can be fearful of buildings).
7. Collars and tags. While the dog is in foster care and during its early stay in a new home it is a good idea for the dog to have a collar and tag --- one with a rescue worker's phone number on it --- in case it bolts. The new owner should be encouraged to retain the collar and tag until they purchase one of their own.
8. If at all possible, photos of the rescue dog should be taken --- it is useful to have four or five shots of each dog and to make several copies of each. These can be used to aid in the adoption process and for subsequent identification should the dog ever get lost again.
9. Placing a rescue dog is not unlike placing a puppy, except that you might know a bit more about the rescue dog and therefore able to place it in a setting that will optimize its chances for success. Some of the following questions should guide consideration of anyone wishing to adopt a rescue:
a. Has the person owned a dog before. b. Does the person know the breed --- why choose a Scottie? c. Are there children in the household? d. Are there other dogs in the house --- ages, sex, temperament. e. Are there cats in the household? f. Does the family have a fenced yard? Will he dog be exercised regularly? g. Are there any preferences for age, sex, activity levels?
Most of these questions are self-evident, but a few comments might be made on (f) and (g). Fenced yards are, of course, ideal. But many people do not have this luxury and a hard and fast rule requiring this condition could well make a rescue dog loose a good home. If there is no fenced yard it is very important to inquire carefully about the living style of the individual and the reason the dog is wanted --- is this a walker, or jogger, someone that wants a companion for exercise. If so, this is a very good bet for a home. As for g, age or sex or other preferences, it is important to inquire into the reasons for the preferences. Sometimes the reasons are legitimate -- e.g. the family has a male dog and feels that a female would fit best --- but more often the rationale for the preference is embedded in some misconceptions. For example, it is frequently the case that an individual looking for a rescue wants a young dog because they believe that only young dogs will bond well with a new owner and be happy and active. The success stories of many rescue placements, old and young, completely falsifies this misconception. The older Scottie can be just as lively and bond just as easily as a young dog. Sex preferences can similarly mask the fact that the potential adopter is basically looking for a particular temperament: some individuals believe that male dogs are more bouncy and aggressive than females. In each of these cases it is important to understand the type of dog that the individual is looking for by understanding why the preferences are important. A bouncy dominant female may be far more appropriate than the shy male for the individual who wanted that outgoing aggressive male.
10. When an inquiry for a rescue dog is received it is important to "log" it in and to keep a record of the name, address, phone number and background of the person making the inquiry.(See Phone Screening form) If no dogs are currently available the individual can be told that he/she will be put on a waiting list. Some rescue information can be sent, such as a rescue flyer, copy of the contract used, etc. to familiarize the individual with the procedures. (Application for Scottish Terrier Adoption is recommended.)
11. When a dog is available that seems to fit with the needs of an individual looking for a rescue, it can be very useful to send photos of the dog. This gives the potential owner something concrete to focus on and can begin the bonding process.
12. When an appropriate home is found it is useful to request three references. (Included in the Application…) If the family has had animals in the recent past at least one of the references should be a vet who can vouch for the adopter's willingness to keep the previous animals up on shots and generally healthy. While it is unlikely that the phone calls to these people will uncover unusual facts, these calls also serve to make the new owner aware of the seriousness of the adoption process.
13. When the dog is transferred to the new owner, all medical and related paperwork (e.g. AKC papers if there are any) together with a contract should be provided. (See Placement Agreement form) The new owner should be asked for a donation to Scottie rescue (suggested $100, but please consider the money that YOU have invested in the dog, shots, spay/neuter and try to set prices accordingly) and the terms of the contract ---particularly the paragraph about returning the dog should the placement not be workable ---- be noted.
14. It is advisable to Xerox copies of the signed contract and send a copy to the new owner. After a day or two the new owner should be contacted to determine how the placement is working --- this can be a good opportunity to trouble shoot if special problems have developed. A second call, a number of days later, helps to solidify the placement.
Owner Turn-Overs
There can be a number of reasons why an owner can no longer keep a dog, some more legitimate than others. A rescue worker may find it hard to listen to some of these reasons, but it is best to focus on the fact that behind the owner there may be a loving very placeable dog, not responsible for its owner's stupidity. Many of the same steps noted above apply to owner-turn-overs, with a few modifications.
1. Unless there are emergency conditions associated with the owner's need to place the dog, the owner should be asked to be responsible for having the dog neutered/spayed, current on all shots and heartworm checked --- all verified by papers from a vet. The owner should also be encouraged to have the dog in groomed condition.
2. A rescue worker should check the temperament of the dog. The owner's assessment should never be the only information on the dog's temperament.
3. When the dog is turned over to the rescue system the owner should be asked to sign release forms that place the dog in the custody of the rescue system. (See Intake form-Owner turn in, Release and Surrender for Adoption form, and Owners Release Agreement) These release papers may specify temperament or medical conditions under which the dog will be returned to the owner.
4. Since shelter dogs must necessarily be given priority for all foster care space, owners wishing to have the rescue network place their dogs should be encouraged to hold on to their dogs until placements are found or adequate foster care space is available.
5. Steps 6 through 14 listed above are applicable.