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Socializing the
Scottie Puppy
Copyright © 1998 Bettina Rister, may not be reproduced or copied without permission “Get that thing out of my office. I never want to see another Scottish Terrier for as long as I live!” Those were the first words I heard from my Veterinarian when we brought Norche, then just a wee three months old, in for her first check up. “You made a very poor choice in breeds.” He later said. What did we know? It had been about fourteen years since we had bought a dog. And we didn’t know the first thing about Scottish Terriers. The reason my Vet was so disturbed about Scotties was, about a week prior to Norche’s first visit, during a routine exam and vaccination, he was bitten by a 35 lb. Scottie. I still remember that his thumb stayed black for 3 months solid! Since then my Vet has had to eat those words numerous times. Norche and Glenn both love going to the vet, and Norche has even been cooperative enough to be held down and manipulated for x-rays with out undergoing anesthetic. But had my Vet not warned me, jokingly or not, for the potential of these terriers to develop attitude problems, I don’t know if my dogs would be as well adjusted as they are today, both being Canine Good Citizens and Therapy dogs. Back then I didn’t know what ‘socialization’ meant. All I knew was that I was determined to prove my Vet wrong about Scotties. Norche went everywhere we went, to the grocery store, to drop me off and pick me up from school, to the park, everywhere I could think to take her. She was exposed very early on to people, places, things and other animals. Then, two years later when we got Glenn, he underwent the same experience. The key to socialization is starting early, always making sure that they are safe. Take treats with you, and talk to your puppy in a firm and confidant voice. Exposure to loud noises and strange places is one thing, but frightening your puppy can have long term effects. If startled by a loud noise, ask in an calm and inquisitive voice, “Oooooo, what was that Mac? What made that awful sound, huh?” Don’t coddle or baby your Scot too much when frightened, especially when they are young. Dogs are opportunists and will learn if they act scared, they get more attention, and you might just end up creating a monster. Proper socialization can be broken down into the following areas: People, places, things, animals, and touch. People: Let your puppy meet as many people as possible. Carry suitable treats with you, and let people treat your pup. Take your pup with you to a local school about the time that school gets out, and let the children pet your puppy. Pick a place where the pup can not be mobbed from all sides, at least in the beginning so that he doesn’t feel smothered, or overwhelmed. Your pup will love these outings and will be much better for them. Places: Take your pup with you on quick trips to the store, let them ride down to the gas station with you. Take them with you to drop your kids off at school. This not only makes for a confidant dog, but will make trips to the vet and groomers much less of a burden if the dog likes to ride and associates it with pleasant things. Take your pup to outings in the park, letting them meet new people and other animals *. Remember to take baby steps, and if your pup seems frightened or unsure next time pick a quieter place, or one less crowded until he is ready to move on. Things:. Take your pup to the park and let him walk on the teeter-totter, slide and other obstacles. If he appears afraid, coax him gently and use treats to get him to do what you want. Above all don’t force the puppy. If he REALLY doesn’t want to do it, don’t make him. You will have judge between weather he is being stubborn, or genuinely afraid. Confidence is what you are aiming for. Animals: Allow your pup to interact with other animals as well. Be sure to introduce your pup SAFELY to many types of pets. Correct any form of aggression toward these other animals, little puppies are too young to be pulling rank. Another great way to get in socialization with other dogs is a puppy kindergarten class. If your pup happens to be to old for puppy-k, don’t hesitate to join a beginners obedience class. Touch: One of the most important aspects of socialization, that often goes overlooked is “touching” your puppy. Scotties need to be groomed fairly frequently, and whether you choose to do it yourself or take them to have it done, touching your pup is invaluable. You should be able to touch the inside of their ears, around their eyes, around their rectums, the pads , toenails, and inside their mouths. You never know when you might have to dislodge a chewey. On male pups you should examine their testicles frequently to make sure they are both descended, and have no mysterious knots, or bumps. On female pups, you should examine the vulva and breasts for the same, this will also enable you to detect oncoming heat cycles. In socializing your puppy you should keep it fun, and make sure you play it safe. You want to build your pups confidence so that he can face any situation throughout his life with true Scottie spirit. If your pup is ever afraid, or unsure, use your good judgment. Gently encourage him to go on, but if he absolutely refuses, don’t force him, he may come to resent that particular task and you may have to go to great lengths to repair the damage. Be alert, and learn to distinguish the difference between being fearful and being stubborn, while at the same time demanding that he is obedient. Following these simple guidelines, you and your pup should have a great time learning about the world, and proving that Scottish Terriers can be well behaved, well trained AND well socialized. * Before you take your pup out to visit with other animals, make sure that they have completed all of their vaccinations. Bibliography: Teaching Dog Obedience Classes: A manual for instructors. Volhard and Fisher (1987). Howell Book House Inc. “Critical Periods” p. 18-29. Socializing the Scottie Puppy “Get that thing out of my office. I never want to see another Scottish Terrier for as long as I live!” Those were the first words I heard from my Veterinarian when we brought Norche, then just a wee three months old, in for her first check up. “You made a very poor choice in breeds.” He later said. What did we know? It had been about fourteen years since we had bought a dog. And we didn’t know the first thing about Scottish Terriers. The reason my Vet was so disturbed about Scotties was, about a week prior to Norche’s first visit, during a routine exam and vaccination, he was bitten by a 35 lb. Scottie. I still remember that his thumb stayed black for 3 months solid! Since then my Vet has had to eat those words numerous times. Norche and Glenn both love going to the vet, and Norche has even been cooperative enough to be held down and manipulated for x-rays with out undergoing anesthetic. But had my Vet not warned me, jokingly or not, for the potential of these terriers to develop attitude problems, I don’t know if my dogs would be as well adjusted as they are today, both being Canine Good Citizens and Therapy dogs. Back then I didn’t know what ‘socialization’ meant. All I knew was that I was determined to prove my Vet wrong about Scotties. Norche went everywhere we went, to the grocery store, to drop me off and pick me up from school, to the park, everywhere I could think to take her. She was exposed very early on to people, places, things and other animals. Then, two years later when we got Glenn, he underwent the same experience. The key to socialization is starting early, always making sure that they are safe. Take treats with you, and talk to your puppy in a firm and confidant voice. Exposure to loud noises and strange places is one thing, but frightening your puppy can have long term effects. If startled by a loud noise, ask in an calm and inquisitive voice, “Oooooo, what was that Mac? What made that awful sound, huh?” Don’t coddle or baby your Scot too much when frightened, especially when they are young. Dogs are opportunists and will learn if they act scared, they get more attention, and you might just end up creating a monster. Proper socialization can be broken down into the following areas: People, places, things, animals, and touch. People: Let your puppy meet as many people as possible. Carry suitable treats with you, and let people treat your pup. Take your pup with you to a local school about the time that school gets out, and let the children pet your puppy. Pick a place where the pup can not be mobbed from all sides, at least in the beginning so that he doesn’t feel smothered, or overwhelmed. Your pup will love these outings and will be much better for them. Places: Take your pup with you on quick trips to the store, let them ride down to the gas station with you. Take them with you to drop your kids off at school. This not only makes for a confidant dog, but will make trips to the vet and groomers much less of a burden if the dog likes to ride and associates it with pleasant things. Take your pup to outings in the park, letting them meet new people and other animals *. Remember to take baby steps, and if your pup seems frightened or unsure next time pick a quieter place, or one less crowded until he is ready to move on. Things:. Take your pup to the park and let him walk on the teeter-totter, slide and other obstacles. If he appears afraid, coax him gently and use treats to get him to do what you want. Above all don’t force the puppy. If he REALLY doesn’t want to do it, don’t make him. You will have judge between weather he is being stubborn, or genuinely afraid. Confidence is what you are aiming for. Animals: Allow your pup to interact with other animals as well. Be sure to introduce your pup SAFELY to many types of pets. Correct any form of aggression toward these other animals, little puppies are too young to be pulling rank. Another great way to get in socialization with other dogs is a puppy kindergarten class. If your pup happens to be to old for puppy-k, don’t hesitate to join a beginners obedience class. Touch: One of the most important aspects of socialization, that often goes overlooked is “touching” your puppy. Scotties need to be groomed fairly frequently, and whether you choose to do it yourself or take them to have it done, touching your pup is invaluable. You should be able to touch the inside of their ears, around their eyes, around their rectums, the pads , toenails, and inside their mouths. You never know when you might have to dislodge a chewey. On male pups you should examine their testicles frequently to make sure they are both descended, and have no mysterious knots, or bumps. On female pups, you should examine the vulva and breasts for the same, this will also enable you to detect oncoming heat cycles. In socializing your puppy you should keep it fun, and make sure you play it safe. You want to build your pups confidence so that he can face any situation throughout his life with true Scottie spirit. If your pup is ever afraid, or unsure, use your good judgment. Gently encourage him to go on, but if he absolutely refuses, don’t force him, he may come to resent that particular task and you may have to go to great lengths to repair the damage. Be alert, and learn to distinguish the difference between being fearful and being stubborn, while at the same time demanding that he is obedient. Following these simple guidelines, you and your pup should have a great time learning about the world, and proving that Scottish Terriers can be well behaved, well trained AND well socialized. * Before you take your pup out to visit with other animals, make sure that they have completed all of their vaccinations. Bibliography: Teaching Dog Obedience Classes: A manual for instructors. Volhard and Fisher (1987). Howell Book House Inc. “Critical Periods” p. 18-29. |