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Socializing
the Adult Scottie Copyright © 1998 Bettina Rister, may not be reproduced or copied without permission As someone who does rescue, I realize the value of socializing the adult Scottie. Sometimes this can be a tough job, especially if the dogs background is not known. Many rescue dogs come with excess “emotional baggage” and it can be quite frustrating to overcome. Why does Molly flinch every time you turn on the blender? Or why is Furgus afraid of thunderstorms? You may never know, but training exercises go a long way to solving these problems and others. Many of the same rules that apply to “puppy” socialization can be applied to “adult” socialization, such as touch desensitization, getting them acquainted with strange places, and introducing them to other animals. A little TLC and a little training can go a long way to rounding out your older dog for a well balanced and happy life. TOUCH I cannot stress enough the importance of “touch desensitization”. Scotties require lots of grooming and brushing. Groomers have to clip nails, express anal glands, touch your dogs face, ears and genitals. All of these places are sensitive to any dog, let alone our precious Scotties. But for some reason, most owners don’t think about “touching” these places, to get the dog used to being “molested” at the groomers or at the veterinarians. Believe me, it makes the job of anyone who cares for your dogs much easier if the dog doesn’t object to being touched, or handled. You should be able to pull gently on your Scotties nails without them even flinching, put your fingers inside their mouths to check teeth and gums, examine their genitals for lumps, bumps, abrasions, and so on. Use a treat or a toy to make it a game. The more fun you make it for your dog, the more they will like it. Start out with small steps, just being able to touch their nails, open their mouths, or touch their rump. Then move on to holding the nails, touching teeth and gums, and so on. All the while praise, talk in a chipper and upbeat voice, and give them special treats. End each session with something they especially like such as a nice walk, lots of cuddles or just a long play session. They will begin to look forward to their touch therapy. PLACES Taking an older Scottie to a “strange place” can be an adventure or a nightmare. Some older, dominant dogs may try to pull your arm out of socket trying to get to every tree, bush or park bench for miles, while others may tremble in fear from all the noise, people and activity. The first case needs a serious lesson in “controlled walking”, not a formal heel, but a polite walk on a loose leash. The second case needs some confidence building, and needs to “work up to” busy or noisy parks. If your Scottie has a sled dog complex on the end of a leash, its time to do a little training. With your dog on leash, you should envision a “comfort zone” all around your body. This zone should be a circle in which you could physically reach out and touch your dog without having to reel them back into you. The circle should extend NO BIGGER than 2-3 feet in any direction. You should be working with at least a 6 foot leash. Start walking. When your dog gets to the end of the leash STOP, and call them back into you, bend down and wave a treat to get them back if you have to. Start walking again. When your dog is walking loosely within that comfort zone, reach down and give them a treat. If they walk off and leave you again, stop again and call them back. After they get the idea that staying closer to you gets them lots of goodies, raise your criteria for reward. Instead of them walking three steps inside the zone and getting treated, make them walk five, then seven, then nine. Pretty soon you have a dog that is enjoyable to walk, and more than likely gets taken more places because he is such a pleasure. The second scenario needs “confidence building”. Meaning that you are building the dogs self-esteem up so that they aren’t fearful of everything that comes their way. Start them out in a quiet place first, before you go to a crowded park. Teach them a few simple obedience exercises, such as sit, down, stand or stay. The more a dog knows, the more confidant they become. If they are timid of people, recruit some friends to “accidentally” show up while walking your dog, and just “happen” to have some liver, or hamburger to treat with. The more you can get this dog into different situations and the more training you do with this dog, the more confidant the dog will be. Remember though, don’t push them too hard. If they aren’t ready to graduate to the next level, or a nosier location, go back to something they know and try again in another week or so, and remember to always keep tasty treats in your pocket. OTHER ANIMALS Introducing older Scotties to other animals in the household may also be a daunting task. If your Scottie was a “road warrior” before he came to you, he may have had to fight other animals for a morsel of food, he might resent other dogs or be fearful. It is best to introduce them slowly. Have the new dog crated or confined, so the existing dogs can get to know him, without being able to start a fight. Gradually work up to having them out together on leash, where both dogs are under control. Both dogs should be corrected for showing aggression. Watch them carefully during their initial play sessions, reward amiable play, and pick neutral toys to start, not the favorite toy that your existing dog has had for years. Understandably pack order will need to be re-established, but violence should be sternly reprimanded on the part of either dog. Nips and growls in most cases are, unfortunately, necessary but a full blown fight should result in a nice long “time-out” and a little more discretion in unsupervised play for a few days. Most dogs eventually get along after the “break-in period”, but an intermittent tussle every now and then maybe a life long affair depending on the temperament of the dogs. Remember, most older dogs just need a little love and understanding. A good old fashioned obedience class never hurts either. Classes give you an opportunity to bond with your new “older” dog, and offers you a chance to socialize him as well, with people and other animals. Your best friends in training are patience and yummy treats. Make it a quest to find the perfect treat that your older dog just LOVES. Don’t push your dog if they aren’t ready, take baby steps and you will get lots more accomplished, it never hurts to backtrack a step or two and reinforce what he has already learned. These tips should put you well on your way to a well rounded and socialized older dog that will be a joy for a lifetime. Bibliography: Second Hand Dog, Carol Lea Benjamin (1988), Howell Book House. |